Almost usable, amazingly.

Cracked slightly around the camera assembly and there's a slight outward bow to the back itself, but with a little bit more trimming and detailing it would almost function.

It's far more brittle though, and I think it still needs to be a bit thicker to maintain integrity.

Also, probably to be printed closer to 0.1mm layers than the 0.2mm I used for this print.

I will carry this learning forward as I continue trying to make a workable 3d printed replacement back cover.

also not a fan of the banding in the layers that contain holes/gaps - any tips on that behavior would be appreciated, as always 🙇

@djsundog Some slicers let you define a place to start the layers at, which may help (if you put it at a far edge rather than the holes, which is where I'm guessing those layers start). Making the layers thinner should also help this, as would making the whole case a bit thicker.

@aschmitz yeah, time for me to stop using the cura legacy slicer via octoprint and just pre-slice for finer control. maybe I'll see if I can get my printer settings right in prusa slicer later today

@djsundog

How stable is the table? I have mine on one of those IKEA Lack tables, and . . . that sucker shifts with fast printer motion. If you can eliminate table wiggle, it makes a difference. (Not to perfection, but.)

@thraeryn this is a good point - the counter surface it's on isn't actually attached to the cabinet base on which it sits, which in turn is not actually attached to either the wall or the floor. I should probably change two out of three of those. Thanks!

@djsundog
Make sure to clean the teeth of your extruder gear and the temp tower would help you nail down the ideal hot end temp.

@djsundog
1st 4 minutes of this video are pretty good.

@djsundog you'll experience a lot of cracking with how you have to print it, sadly. Also if it's pla. But you can use super glue to fuse it back together.

@dotUser do you think ABS would be better or worse for this use case (because that maroon ABS spool I got keeps calling my name)

(I probably won't actually try any ABS prints until we have a working furnace in the house)

@djsundog abs is definitely more likely to stay together, but it does require good conditions and higher temp.

Also can be made stronger with acetone brushing the outside. While pla doesn't really react to acetone.

@djsundog and ofc if the abs cools too much as it prints you can have even worse bonding than pla.

@djsundog (I'd recommend not printing it without ventilation or containment of some kind as it also is pretty nauseating)

@djsundog if you have a cabinet you could fit it inside that seals relatively well it'd be good. The heated bed would help maintain the temperatures inside and the enclosed space would control the fumes. Couple minutes after printing you'd be able to retrieve the print.

@djsundog I actually need to build a cabinet for my ender but I need to order Ikea lack side tables for it and then print all the components

@dotUser right on - then I'll deffo give it another try in maroon once the hot box is hottening again ;)

@djsundog On the other hand, you could probably use it to make a silicone mold, and from that, an epoxy mold. The epoxy mold would probably be nigh indestructable.

@djsundog
Have you done a temperature tower with this filament to determine the best printing temp of this filament? That cracking can come from the plastic cooling too fast. .1mm layers can make it worse with double the layers and potential layer adhesion issues. PLA can be very brittle, especially in the cold. Warps like an LP record in the heat. TPU would be perfect for this application. It's very rubbery and is indestructable but you'll need a full metal hot end.

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