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good morning.

head-cold still in full effect, I have just tasked the 3d printer to try to print the pinephone back cover again, this time with a raft instead of a brim, and with a couple speed tweaks to slow it down in hopes of ending up with a better end result. we'll see in about six hours.

@djsundog Out of curiosity, what failed last time?

@sungo curling at the bed - I only used a two perimeter brim, and I'm rolling without an enclosure in the basement of a house without a working central heating apparatus, so I should have known better probably, but I figure getting some practice in under less than optimal print conditions may have some value in the future

@djsundog Indeed it will. When I'm forced to use a brim (god I hate brims), they're usually huge because I'm done fucking around. Six or seven perimeters is not uncommon on my brims :)
@thegibson @djsundog it's also of course usually a huge brim + adhesive of some variety. again, done fucking around :)

@sungo @djsundog

Again, agreed.

Brims piss me off to even look at... like an admission of failure on my part .:)

@thegibson @djsundog it's just that drama of maybe taking the first real perimeter off when I remove the brim. Or, getting bits of that final brim perimeter and having to carefully exacto off the rest. Such drama.

@sungo @TheGibson oh yes, I added a healthy yet consistent layer of extra hold hair spray before getting started this morn ;)

@sungo @TheGibson nope, still bare aluminum, although the buildtak sheets I ordered were just delivered about three minutes ago, so that'll be going on before any further prints

@djsundog @sungo

When you want the next step from hairspray, I have found layerneer’s products to be very good.

@thegibson @djsundog layerneer is very good but a bit twitchy in my experience. I really like their adapter. I typically use magigoo but layerneer is in general a much grabby-ier goop.
@thegibson @djsundog Magigoo is easy peasy. It leaves nothing on the print and doesn't fuss up the bed. But the applicator is a bit bleh. Layerneer is a better overall adhesive with a better applicator. In my experience, it leaves more marks on the print and certainly leaves bits on the bed. Magigoo is friendlier about taking stuff off the bed before the magic 40C. Layerneer really wants to hold on. If I get a print off of layerneer before 40C, it leaves schmutz on the plate.
@thegibson @djsundog Also, neither work on garolite but that's not too surprising.

@sungo @djsundog

Been trying to find a large enough silicon wafer bed... because I’m that fancy asshole.

@thegibson @djsundog I'd really like to find something that either makes me feel safer about printing petg on my glass bed or something I can put down on that glass bed to make it not a problem.

@sungo @djsundog

My bed has accumulated a coat. I will likely be scraping and running it through the dishwasher this weekend.

@thegibson @djsundog I clean mine regularly. Water and alcohol. But we have different print standards :)

@sungo @djsundog

We do.

I am no perfectionist, but with these armor prints lately I have been trending your way a bit.

@thegibson @djsundog I've become a bit less of a perfectionist now that I've found the boundary conditions on each machine. And I've machines with different properties that I can play against each other. Take the calicats as an example. I'm printing the new PLA ones on the rostock because I can push it a lot faster. but I also know that the tails are going to be kinda gnarly because this delta at least kinda sucks at tiny squares. I can fight for absolute perfection but the machine has certain boundary conditions that I'm just not going to overcome easily and without possibly making it worse for other prints.
@thegibson @djsundog Also, my quest for perfection these days is down the rabbit hole of slicers. it turns out that a ton of my printer drama has been because S3D and Cura suck a *lot* (and in different ways)
@thegibson @djsundog It and I have the biggest laughs over its notion of speed, in its automatic modes. No really, I can get very awesome external perimeters at higher than 10mm/s. But if nothing else, it's got three easy tabs. Printer, Filament, Print with stuff broken out very nicely. You can tag each part as dependent on the others. For instance, I have filament profiles that only work on the rostock due to temperature differences. Slicing is slower in my experience than Cura but the resulting gcode is thus far much better. it's a little thing but the button to just upload to octoprint / duet and start printing is pretty hot.

And it doesn't need an awesome GPU just to render dropdown lists. Fucking Cura...

@sungo @djsundog @thegibson I’ve been using Prusa and it’s alright. I only tried it because it was easy to instal on the Manjaro Pinebook pro build, but it’s growing on me.

Of course I’m coming from Slic3r, and they share a lot under the hood.

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@sungo @djsundog @thegibson also would love to see how those pinebook backs are coming along; not sure I can fit it in my mini :)

@requiem @sungo @TheGibson no way I can pull off a pinebook case on mine either, but here are the results shots of the first pass at the pinephone back cover ;)

toot-lab.reclaim.technology/@d

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@sungo @djsundog

The ender 3 pro is definitely a lesson in this for me.

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